Guadalquivir River Valley
13 Nights / 14 Days
The Guadalquivir, which is the longest river in Andalucía, has played a pivotal role in the region’s history and development. This itinerary takes you the whole length of the river, from its source in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park to its mouth at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Along the way, you’ll pass the historic capitals that grew up on its banks – Córdoba and Seville – as well as the frontier towns Úbeda and Baeza in the upper Guadalquivir valley.
You’ll pass through contrasting landscapes, from the mountainous Sierra de Cazorla to Andalucía’s agricultural heartlands and on to the wetlands of Doñana National Park. You’ll have the chance to spot some of the region’s diverse wildlife, from eagles to flamingoes, ibex to wild boar and butterflies to lizards. If you’re really lucky you might even see a lynx.
Days 1-3 Cazorla
The town of Cazorla is the gateway to the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, a beautiful mountainous area home to numerous species of birds, as well as mammals like deer and ibex. It’s also where you’ll find the source of the mighty River Guadalquivir.
Base yourself in Cazorla for a couple of days so you have time to explore the park, find the source of the river and do some hiking through the dramatic scenery.
At the end of the third day, head to Úbeda to spend the night and be ready for sightseeing the next day.
Day 1
Cazorla
Cazorla’s charming old town clings to the hillside watched over by a castle – El Castillo de la Yedra – built by the Muslims in the 11th or 12th century. If you have time, spend a couple of hours exploring the narrow streets, which open up onto numerous viewpoints.
Evening
Cazorla has several traditional restaurants serving hearty mountain fare, including wild game and the local speciality Segureño lamb. Fish dishes like locally caught trout are also available.
Day 2
Source of the Guadalquivir
The source of the river is located at Cañada de las Fuentes, about a 35 km drive from Cazorla on mountain roads.
There are various hiking routes from Cañada de las Fuentes, including the Valle de los Tejos Milenarios route which takes you past thousand-year-old yew trees. Another option is to stop on the way there or back for the short hike to Cerrada de Utrero (about 2 km) to see a spectacular gorge carved out by Guadalquivir.
If you don’t have a car, there are 4×4 guided tours available that include a visit to Cañada de las Fuentes. Or, if you’re feeling intrepid, you could hire a bike.
Lunch
There are a few restaurants dotted around the park, some of which have lovely views. Try Mesón el Ciervo, Coto del Valle Restaurante or Restaurante Calerilla Cazorla.
Evening
If you’ve had a big lunch, there are various bars in Cazorla where you can get tapas.
For more of a fine dining experience, try Restaurante Alfonso X el Sabio in the centre of the village. They offer three different tasting menus based on locally sourced ingredients, each with an optional wine flight.
Day 3
Morning
Río Borosa hike
For a bit of a challenge, try the well-known Río Borosa hike. It’s a long and steep climb up, so start early in the morning and take plenty of water. The full route is over 23 km there and back with 850 m of vertical height difference. But you can do a cut-down 15 km version that avoids most of the climb.
If this sounds too much, there are many other walks in the natural park of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty. This includes hikes starting from the village of Cazorla itself, for those without a car.
Lunch
Take a packed lunch so you don’t run out of fuel while you’re out hiking.
Afternoon
Travel to Úbeda
There are 3-5 buses a day from Cazorla to Úbeda (1 hour). The last one goes at 17:30.
The drive takes about 45 minutes. You’ll cross the Guadalquivir at Puente de la Cerrada, only about 20 km from Cazorla. However, the river has done a huge loop round the mountains, and has already travelled over 100 km from its source.
Evening
Misa de 12 on Úbeda’s Plaza 1 de Mayo is the perfect place for a drink or casual bite to eat while you admire the fine architecture and watch the world go by. On the same square, a slightly more upmarket choice is Lolana or, if you really want to push the boat out, Cibus.
Days 4-5 Úbeda and Baeza
Úbeda and Baeza, jointly designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are famous for their fine Renaissance architecture. But this part of the upper Guadalquivir valley has been inhabited for thousands of years. The first settlers were attracted by the abundant minerals in the Sierra Morena mountains to the north and the fertile river valley.
In the Middle Ages, Úbeda and Baeza were right on the frontier between warring Muslim and Christian kingdoms. They were definitively taken by the Christians quite soon after the Battle of Navas de Tolosa in 1212. This opened the way for Ferdinand III to sweep through the whole Guadalquivir Valley, first taking Córdoba, then Seville and finally Sanlúcar de la Barrameda. Spend the next two days discovering the rich heritage of Úbeda and Baeza while you relax in charming squares and enjoy some fabulous cuisine.
This itinerary assumes that you stay in Úbeda and take a day trip to nearby Baeza, but you could stay in Baeza instead. Úbeda has a wider range of restaurants and accommodation, but Baeza’s Medieval streets are absolutely charming on a moonlit evening, so both are great options.
Day 4
Morning
Medieval and Renaissance Úbeda
Úbeda is packed with well-preserved buildings from the medieval and Renaissance periods. These include interesting churches like San Pablo and Santa María de los Reales Alcázares ($), as well as elegant mansions such as the Palacio Juan Vázquez de Molina, the Palacio del Deán Ortega and the Palacio Vela de los Cobos ($).
Úbeda also has a number of lovely squares, which are the perfect place to enjoy a coffee or a beer as you admire the fine architecture and watch the world go by. Climb the clock tower in Plaza de Andalucía for a commanding view of the town.
Jewish Úbeda
Úbeda was home to an important Jewish community in the Middle Ages, and there are several sights relating to that part of its heritage. These include the Plazuela de la Judería ($), which gives you a fascinating insight into Jewish life in medieval Spain, and the Sinagoga del Agua ($), which may have been a clandestine synagogue. Both visits are by guided tour in Spanish, but the Sinagoga del Agua does provide information in English.
Lunch
You’re spoiled for choice in Úbeda, which has a great food culture and lots of reasonably priced bars and restaurants. On Calle Real, Metropolitan la Real and Taberna la Botica are both great options.
Afternoon
Sacra Capilla del Salvador (Holy Chapel of the Saviour)
The outstanding sight in Úbeda is undoubtedly the Sacra Capilla del Salvador, or Holy Chapel of the Saviour, considered one of the masterpieces of the Spanish Renaissance. It was commissioned as a funerary chapel by Francisco de los Cobos, who had become immensely wealthy through his position as secretary to the Emperor Charles V. No expense was spared, with the finest craftsmen being brought in to decorate it.
The original design was by Diego de Siloe, the architect behind Granada Cathedral, but Andrés de Vandelvira was responsible for executing the project, and he designed the magnificent sacristy. Work on the chapel began in 1535, and after the death of de los Cobos in 1547, it was completed in 1559 under the auspices of his widow María de Mendoza.
Ceramics
Úbeda has been a centre of ceramics production since the Middle Ages. You can visit one of the workshops where they still produce pottery the traditional way, using a so-called Arab oven. The Paco Tito museum in one of the workshops has interesting exhibits on the history of the local ceramics industry.
Evening
Try another of the restaurants mentioned previously or Restaurante Cantina la Estación just outside the old town walls.
Day 5
Morning
Travel between Úbeda and Baeza
There are regular buses between Úbeda and Baeza (15 minutes).
The drive also takes about 10-15 minutes.
Plaza del Pópulo and Plaza de Santa Cruz
Explore the streets and squares of Baeza’s old town, which is most famous for its beautiful Renaissance architecture. Landmarks include the magnificent Plateresque town hall, the Plaza del Pópulo with its lion fountain and two triumphal arches and the small but interesting Antonio Machado museum housed in the old university buildings. Don’t miss Plaza de Santa Cruz, where the richly ornamented Palacio de Jabalquinto contrasts with the simple but beautiful Iglesia de Santa Cruz, one of Andalucía’s few Romanesque churches.
Lunch
For a simple, tasty lunch, try Ajedrea or Canela en Rama, or if you want something more fancy, Acebuche is a great option. And if you’re a real foodie, there’s the Michelin-starred Vandelvira restaurant, but you’ll need to book ahead. It’s pricey, but much less so than many other Michelin-starred restaurants.
Afternoon
Baeza Cathedral
Visit Baeza’s fine cathedral ($), which stands opposite the old seminary on Plaza de Santa María. It was begun in 13th century in the Gothic-Mudejar style, but almost entirely rebuilt by the great Renaissance architect Andrés de Vandelvira after the original structure collapsed in 1567. The bell tower provides excellent views of the town.
On leaving the cathedral, wind your way through Baeza’s picture-perfect medieval alleyways and take in the panoramic views of the Guadalquivir river and the Sierra Mágina beyond from the Mirador de las Murallas. Nearby, there’s a section of the medieval town walls that is still intact.
Evening
Stay in Baeza for dinner and a moonlit stroll to see the cathedral lit up, or head back to Úbeda.
Day 6 Olive Oil and Travel to Córdoba
If you survey the scene from one of Úbeda or Baeza’s viewpoints, you’ll see the olive groves stretching into the distance. The province of Jaén, which includes Úbeda and Baeza, produces 20% of the world’s olive oil, and on the way to Córdoba you’ll pass through countless olive estates. Before you start the journey, why not spend the morning finding out more about the history olive oil production and how it is produced today.
Morning
Olive and Olive Oil Interpretation Centre
You can find out all about the history of olive cultivation and oil production at the Olive and Olive Oil Interpretation Centre ($) in Úbeda. They offer tastings and there’s also a shop.
Olive Oil Mill
The most convenient olive mill to visit is AOVEland on the outskirts of Baeza, which offers an interesting guided tour and oil tasting. Tours in English are generally at 10 am, but go to their website to check the times and reserve in advance.
If you have a car, a few kilometres south of Baeza, the Museum of Olive Culture is open from 10:30 to 13:30. It’s housed in a historic olive estate and its displays about the history of olive oil production over the centuries are in stark contrast with the modern facilities at AOVEland.
Lunch
Have lunch in Úbeda or Baeza before you leave or, if you’re driving, stop along the way.
It’s about 45 minutes’ drive to Baños de la Encina. Taberna El Pilarejo and the more upmarket Bury Restaurante have parking nearby and avoid any need to drive up tiny village streets.
Afternoon
Travel from Úbeda to Córdoba
There are 2 buses a day between Úbeda and Córdoba (2.5 hours).
The nearest train station is Estación de Linares-Baeza, which you could get to by taxi. There is only one train a day from Estación de Linares-Baeza to Córdoba.
By car, the most straightforward route is to take the A32 and A4 dual carriageways (about 2 hours). You’ll reencounter the River Guadalquivir around Andújar and then cross it several more times as it meanders towards Córdoba. If you want to get off the main road and see somewhere different, consider a short detour. Two suggestions are Baños de la Encina with its striking, oval-shaped castle and Cañete de las Torres – a delightful village with flower-lined streets and a castle on the main square.
River Guadalquivir
When you reach Córdoba, it’s worth having a stroll out onto the bridge and along the River Guadalquivir. You’ll pass the 11th century Albolafia water mill that forms part of Córdoba’s coat of arms and the Castle of the Christian Monarchs. If you have time, it’s worth going in to see the lovely gardens, but if not, you can leave it for Day 8.
Córdoba is on the Guadalquivir’s middle course, and you’ll immediately see how much more impressive it has become. The Roman name for the river was Baetis, and it formed the backbone of the Roman province of Baetica, which had its capital at Córdoba. In those days, the river was navigable all the way up to here from the Atlantic. It’s a testament to how much easier it was to travel by boat that this became the centre of power, even though it’s a very long way around by sea and river from the Mediterranean. Centuries later, the Muslims also decided to make Córdoba their capital.
Evening
The dining options in the historic centre are surprisingly good, despite the hordes of day-tripping tourists. Many restaurants are located in traditional Andalusian houses with pretty courtyards or roof terraces with views of the Mosque-Cathedral.
Caza Mazal specialises in Sephardic cuisine and Restaurante Damasco, as the name suggests, has a range of Middle Eastern and Persian dishes. These flavours also infuse the traditional local food on offer in any of Córdoba’s restaurants. Some others worth trying are Taberna El No 10, Restaurante El Rincon De Carmen and Casa Pepe de la Judería in Calle Romero.
Days 7-8 Córdoba
During the next two days in Córdoba, you’ll explore Córdoba’s Roman and Muslim heritage, including the UNESCO-listed Mosque-Cathedral and Medina Azahara archaeological site. Our City of Caliphs audio tour guides you through the layers of history, including Córdoba’s decline and subsequent conquest by the Christians, as well as telling you the story of the city’s important Jewish community during the Middle Ages. Along the way, you’ll see how traces of the past endure in local customs and cuisine.
Day 7
Morning
Roman Córdoba
In Roman times, Córdoba was the thriving capital of the province of Baetica, which was roughly equivalent to modern-day Andalucía. Most of its Roman remains are hidden below the city, but it’s worth visiting the Archaeological Museum, which occupies the site of the Roman theatre and has a good collection of Roman statues and everyday items. The Roman Temple has recently been restored and can be visited if booked in advance.
Of course, there’s also the “Roman bridge”, although very little of the original Roman structure remains. Nevertheless, it’s one of Córdoba’s iconic sights, and a great vantage point from which to admire the Mosque-Cathedral and mighty River Guadalquivir.
Plaza del Potro
Plaza del Potro is an attractive square named after the statue of a colt that adorns the fountain. It is flanked by three museums: the Flamenco Centre Fosforito ($) housed in a former inn mentioned in Cervantes’ masterpiece Don Quijote; Córdoba’s Fine Arts Museum; and the Julio Romero de Torres Museum ($), dedicated to the work of one of Spain’s finest symbolist artists.
Lunch
Grab a quick lunch at one of the many good bars and restaurants in the heart of Córdoba’s old town. Bar El Barón in Plaza de Abades is excellent, and we pass it near the start of the City of Caliphs audio tour.
Afternoon
Córdoba Mosque-Cathedral
Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral is, alongside the Alhambra, the outstanding example of Andalucía’s Islamic heritage. The original mosque, with its iconic double-tiered red and white arches, was completed in less than two years at the end of the 8th century. The mosque’s elegant combination of semi-circular, horseshoe and multifoil arches has provided inspiration for buildings across the world. The Main Chapel added by the Christians in the 16th century thrusts up through the roof of the mosque, creating a striking fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture that dominates Córdoba’s skyline.
Judería: Córdoba’s Jewish quarter
In the 13th and 14th centuries, the sinuous streets of Córdoba’s Judería were home to thousands of Jewish people, but they were forced to flee or convert to Christianity after a bloody pogrom in 1391. The quarter still retains the charming medieval layout of its streets, and its sights include the beautiful Synagogue, the Chapel of Saint Bartholomew ($), and the House of Sefarad ($), which tells the story of Spain’s former Jewish community.
Evening
For something different, at the Royal Stables near the Alcázar you can see an equestrian show combining pure-bred Spanish horses and flamenco.
There are several good restaurants in the San Basilio neighbourhood, including Restaurante Puerta de Sevilla and Restaurante Taberna la Viuda.
Day 8
Morning
Medina Azahara
After Abd-al Rahman III proclaimed himself Caliph of Córdoba in the year 929, he decided to build a new capital just 8 km from Córdoba. Although Medina Azahara has been pillaged for building materials over the centuries, archaeologists have been able to piece together the city’s overall layout and reconstruct some of its monumental buildings. Excavations are ongoing, but you can visit quite a bit of the site. There’s also an excellent museum that puts it all in context.
Get the special bus to the site from the stop on Glorieta Cruz Roja near the Puerta de Almodóvar.
Lunch
There are several bars and restaurants just inside the Puerta de Almodóvar, near where the bus the Medina Azahara stops, including Restaurante Casa Rubio.
Afternoon
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Castle of the Christian Monarchs)
Built on the site of the former Caliphal palace, the Castle of Christian Monarchs is a marvellous example of the various cultures that have shaped Córdoba over the centuries. Most of the complex as it stands today was built during the reign of Alfonso XI in the 14th century, but it also harbours vestiges of the city’s Roman and Islamic past. Highlights of the visit include the stunning formal gardens, as well as a fine collection of Roman mosaics and the panoramic views from the castle’s formidable ramparts.
Evening
Córdoba is famous for its traditional tabernas. In an effort to preserve them, the local council has created a special badge that identifies the ones of particular cultural or historical interest. Away from the main tourist centre, you’ll find Taberna Salinas near the Roman Theatre and Taberna San Miguel “Casa El Pisto” in Plaza de San Miguel. If the taberna fare sounds a bit too heavy, Tu Pescaito in Plaza de la Corredera is an excellent option for fish and seafood.
Day 9 Travel Córdoba to Seville
Before you leave for Seville, it’s worth visiting a couple of Córdoba’s famous patios in the San Basilio district. You may have passed them on the audio tour but not had the chance to go in due to their limited opening hours.
Morning
Córdoba’s patios
Córdoba is famous for its UNESCO-listed Patios festival, which is held in May. Prizes are given for the most beautifully decorated patios or courtyards, and there are also categories for balconies and window boxes.
In the San Basilio area, there are several privately-owned flower-filled courtyards you can visit all year round. Opening times vary, but they are usually open late morning, so go before lunch. Make sure you have some coins handy as a small donation is expected.
Travel to Seville
The fastest way to travel from Córdoba to Seville is by train (1 hour), but you can also get a bus (2+ hours).
If driving, the fastest route is the A4 dual carriageway (allow up to 2 hours). However, it only takes slightly longer on the more scenic A-431/A-457 route which more closely follows the course of the Guadalquivir.
Lunch
Depending on your travel plans, grab a quick lunch in Córdoba before leaving, stop along the way or wait until you get to Seville.
Afternoon
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España is one of Spain’s most iconic sights. It was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, which celebrated the historic links between the Iberian Peninsula – Spain and Portugal – and the Americas. The ornately tiled panels – one for each Spanish province – chart key moments in Spain’s history.
The Plaza de España is set in the María Luisa park, which is home to several other sights. These include the Museum of Arts and Customs ($), housed in a beautiful neo-Mudéjar pavilion also built for the Expo.
Evening
Santa Cruz
Lose yourself in the labyrinthine web of streets in the former Jewish quarter of Seville. Although these days the district is packed with souvenir shops, you can still enjoy some traditional tapas in an atmospheric bar or charming square.
Bear in mind that service can be a bit hit or miss, and it’s often hard to find space in local institutions like Bodega Santa Cruz, known locally as “Las Columnas” and Casa Román. Other bars to try include Taberna Álvaro Peregil and El Librero.
Restaurante San Marco Santa Cruz housed in some 12th century Arab baths offers a good range of Spanish and Italian dishes. Another bar where you can see the remains of old Arab baths is Cervecería Giralda Bar – they were discovered in conjunction with renovations carried out during the pandemic.
Days 10-11 Seville
Córdoba started to lose its status when the Caliphate disintegrated into many smaller kingdoms. Added to this, the river started to silt up, impeding navigation up to Córdoba. Power shifted downriver to Seville, which later became the main Christian stronghold in the south. After Columbus’ voyages of discovery, Seville got the monopoly on trade with the Americas, ushering in its Golden Age in the 15 and 1600s.
The river you can see in Seville’s historic centre is actually only a side channel, as the Guadalquivir itself has been rerouted several times to prevent flooding. Over the next couple of days, explore both sides of the river, including the Cathedral, Royal Alcázar and Triana – the home of flamenco. Hear the stories of each district with our Gateway to the Americas and Triana audio tours.
Day 10
Morning
Seville’s historic centre
Dominated by the cathedral ($) and the Royal Alcázar ($), Seville’s historic centre is also home to a number of other interesting sights. These include the impressive City Hall, the Archives of the Indies, the bull ring ($), the Hospital de la Caridad ($) and its attached chapel with stunning paintings by Murillo.
Many of the finest buildings date from Seville’s Golden Age in the 16th and 17th centuries, when gold and silver from the Americas funded the construction of churches, convents and mansions in the Renaissance and Baroque styles.
Along the Guadalquivir
The east bank of the Guadalquivir, which is now just a peaceful side-branch from the main river, has been turned into a pleasant promenade. Sights in this area include the twelve-sided Torre de Oro, which in Muslim times formed part of the city’s defences, and a replica of the Nao Victoria, the boat which completed the first circumnavigation of the Earth. You also get great views across to Triana, the lively neighbourhood on the other side of the river.
Lunch
You can enjoy anything from traditional Andalucian fare to modern fusion cuisine at one of the many bars and restaurants in the city centre. For better value and a more authentic experience, avoid the area right by the cathedral and head into the side streets. And it’s always worth checking the latest reviews before sitting down!
Afternoon
Seville Cathedral
Seville’s massive cathedral was built in the 15th century on the site of the city’s former main mosque. Its bell tower – the famous Giralda – and the Orange Tree Courtyard still serve as reminders of that Islamic past. Although it was originally conceived in the Gothic style, later additions mean that the building we see today combines Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements.
The cathedral also houses an impressive art collection, as well as the tombs of notable figures including Ferdinand III of Castile and Christiopher Columbus. For a completely different perspective on the building and its surroundings, you can do a rooftop tour of the cathedral.
River Cruise
In Seville it’s worth taking the opportunity to get out on the river, even if it’s only a side branch of the Guadalquivir. The passenger cruises usually last about an hour. If you’re more adventurous, you could hire a kayak or a paddle board. Or get on a bike and cycle along the banks.
Evening
Calle Feria and the streets around are great for tapas bar-hopping – try Casa Vizcaíno or Bar El Templo de Feria. Fatouch has very tasty Lebanese food.
For a formal meal, Lalola de Javi Abascal offers modern Andalucian cuisine, specialising in Iberian pork dishes.
Day 11
Morning
Real Alcázar of Seville (Royal Alcázar)
Seville’s Royal Alcázar is really two separate palaces set in beautiful gardens. The rather austere Gothic palace dates from Alfonso X’s reign in the late 13th century, while Pedro I’s Mudejar palace is a harmonious blend of Muslim, Christian and Jewish influences. If at first glance it resembles the Nasrid Palaces in the Alhambra, that’s no coincidence – they were both built in the 14th century, and Pedro had a good relationship with Muhammad V, the Muslim ruler of Granada.
Lunch
The atmospheric Mercado de Triana has numerous tapas bars among the market stalls selling fresh produce, so it’s a great spot for lunch.
Afternoon
Triana
The brightly-coloured houses on Triana’s waterfront are one of Seville’s most recognisable landmarks, but behind them lies an equally colourful neighbourhood waiting to be explored. Once a working-class district with a large Roma population, these days Triana is a great place to soak up the Sevillano atmosphere, enjoy some authentic tapas and catch a passionate flamenco performance.
Evening
You shouldn’t miss the opportunity to see a flamenco show while you’re in Triana. There are a lot of good venues, including Sala Almoraima – Tablao Flamenco and Teatro Flamenco Triana.
The lively Triana district has some great options for traditional Sevillian food, particularly if you step a bit away from the end of the Triana bridge. Try Blanca Paloma, Las Golondrinas or Bar Típico.
Day 12-13 Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Sanlúcar de Barrameda lies on the estuary of the River Guadalquivir, where this tour ends. In centuries gone by, treasure ships would pass through here on their way from Cádiz to Seville, but these days it’s most famous for its sherry and annual horse races on the beach.
Start out early from Seville and aim to reach Sanlúcar in time to visit a sherry bodega before lunch. Spend the afternoon exploring the old town. The following day, book yourself on a tour of Doñana National Park and then relax on the beach or strolling around the coast.
Day 12
Morning
Travel to Sanlúcar de Barrameda
There are regular buses between Seville and Sanlúcar de Barrameda (about 2 hours). The bus company is Damas – part of Grupo Interbus.
The drive takes about an hour and a half. You can’t drive very close to the river because it’s surrounded by marshland in its lower course. Take the A4 dual carriageway and then the A-471 towards Sanlúcar.
Sherry Bodegas
Sanlúcar forms part of the “sherry triangle” along with Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto de Santa María. There are several bodegas that you can visit for a tour and tasting, including Bodega Delgado Zuleta, Bodegas Hidalgo – La Gitana and Bodegas Barbadillo.
For a more personalised and unique experience try Bodegas Alonso, run by the brothers Fran and Fernando who in 2015 stepped in to rescue the historic Bodegas Pedro Romero after its financial collapse. You get a private tour – quite possibly with one of the owners themselves – and the chance to try some of their top-notch aged sherries direct from the cask, which is reflected in the price.
Lunch and Dinner
Some of the bodegas offer a tasting with lunch. Otherwise, try one of Sanlúcar’s many bars and restaurants. A little away from the main centre, Bar la Espuela II is an excellent option for reasonably-priced fish and seafood that’s popular with locals and visitors alike. La Tasquita Tapas has more elaborate dishes and a good selection of wines, and there are more bars specialising in fried fish on Plaza de la Paz.
Afternoon
Sanlúcar’s Historic Centre
The most prominent building in the historic centre of Sanlúcar is the castle – Castillo de Santiago ($) – which is worth a visit. Inside the keep there’s a great collection of historical maps and interesting exhibitions about Magellan and Elcano’s voyage around the world, Miguel de Cervantes and the Spanish Armada.
The nearby Palace of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia ($) has limited opening times and visits are by a somewhat encyclopaedic guided tour in Spanish. There’s a café in the lovely gardens that’s open in the afternoons, but it gets slightly mixed reviews. Underneath the gardens on Cuesta de Belén you’ll find the “Covachas” built into the retaining wall. This is a portico of gothic-style arches built in the 15th century, ornately decorated with mythological figures.
Day 13
Morning
Doñana National Park
The Doñana National Park is a protected area of wetlands and sand dunes across the Guadalquivir estuary from Sanlúcar. Tours of Doñana from Sanlucar typically last 3-4 hours and include a river boat trip as well as crossing the sand dunes by 4×4 vehicle to see the unique ecosystems and spot wildlife including migrating birds of prey, flamingos and other wading birds, deer and – if you’re very lucky – Iberian lynx.
Lunch
Get a fish or seafood lunch at one of the restaurants near the jetty like Casa Bigote, Restaurante La Lobera or Doña Calma Gastrobar – washed down with a cold glass of sherry of course. It’s worth booking ahead, particularly at weekends.
Afternoon
Beaches and coastline
Relax on one Sanlúcar’s sandy beaches or take a stroll along the coastal promenade.
Evening
Enjoy a final evening on the Atlantic coast after an epic journey down the Guadalquivir.
Day 14
You should have time for a last walk along the beach or a bit of last-minute shopping.
Related audio tours
Save money with a tour bundle
Included audio tours:
- Seville’s Plaza de España: A Window into the Rich History of Spain
- Gateway to the Americas: A Walking Tour Through Seville’s Golden Age
- Flamenco on the Guadalquivir: Industry and Artistry in Seville’s Triana
Questions and Answers
The source of the Guadalquivir is at Cañada de las Fuentes in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park.
The mouth of the Guadalquivir is at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, just north of Cádiz, where it flows into the Atlantic.
The river that passes through Córdoba and Seville is the River Guadalquivir.
Cazorla is the gateway to the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, which is a protected area with a beautiful, mountainous landscape, home to many species of birds, as well as mammals such as deer and ibex. It’s also where the River Guadalquivir – the longest river in Andalucía – has its source. Cazorla is a lovely historic town overlooked by a castle.
Úbeda and Baeza are jointly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for their unique and well-preserved Renaissance architecture. They also have traces of the periods of Muslim and Christian rule in the Middle Ages. They both have excellent restaurants in charming squares and historic buildings where you can sample the outstanding local cuisine.