Seville and Córdoba
5 nights / 6 days
Strategically located on the mighty Guadalquivir River, Córdoba was the capital of the Roman province of Baetica, and in the 8th century it was chosen as the capital of the Muslim Emirate. When the political winds changed and the river silted up, impeding navigation up to Córdoba, power shifted downriver to Seville. Later, Seville became the main Christian stronghold in the south, and indeed it is still the capital of Andalucía today.
The cities have a wealth of historic monuments, including must-see sights like the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, Seville Cathedral and the royal palaces (Alcázares) in both cities. As well as them, this itinerary gives you time to explore traditional Andalucian neighbourhoods, experience the passion of a flamenco performance and sample the local cuisine.
Days 1-3: Seville
Spend your first evening in Seville in the atmospheric old Jewish quarter of Santa Cruz. Nearby is the photogenic Plaza de España, probably Seville’s most-visited sight. If you want to find out more about it, our Plaza de España audio tour gives you an insight into the history of the Plaza and what each of its elaborately tiled panels represents.
On the second and third days, visit Seville’s Cathedral and the Royal Alcázar, as well as exploring the historic centre and the districts either side of the River Guadalquivir. Our Gateway to the Americas VoiceMap audio tour tells the history of Seville’s Golden Age in the 15 and 1600s, while guiding you through the historic centre and along the bank of the Guadalquivir. We also have an audio tour of the Triana distict on the other side of the river – home to sailors, pottery workers, bullfighters and flamenco.
Day 1
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España is one of Spain’s most iconic sights. It was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, which celebrated the historic links between the Iberian Peninsula – Spain and Portugal – and the Americas. The ornately tiled panels – one for each Spanish province – chart key moments in Spain’s history.
The Plaza de España is set in the María Luisa park, which is home to several other sights. These include the Museum of Arts and Customs ($), housed in a beautiful neo-Mudéjar pavilion also built for the Expo.
Evening
Santa Cruz
Lose yourself in the labyrinthine web of streets in the former Jewish quarter of Seville. Although these days the district is packed with souvenir shops, you can still enjoy some traditional tapas in an atmospheric bar or charming square.
Bear in mind that service can be a bit hit or miss, and it’s often hard to find space in local institutions like Bodega Santa Cruz, known locally as “Las Columnas” and Casa Román. Other bars to try include Taberna Álvaro Peregil and El Librero.
Restaurante San Marco Santa Cruz housed in some 12th century Arab baths offers a good range of Spanish and Italian dishes. Another bar where you can see the remains of old Arab baths is Cervecería Giralda Bar – they were discovered in conjunction with renovations carried out during the pandemic.
Day 2
Morning
Seville’s historic centre
Dominated by the cathedral ($) and the Royal Alcázar ($), Seville’s historic centre is also home to a number of other interesting sights. These include the impressive City Hall, the Archives of the Indies, the bull ring ($), the Hospital de la Caridad ($) and its attached chapel with stunning paintings by Murillo.
Many of the finest buildings date from Seville’s Golden Age in the 16th and 17th centuries, when gold and silver from the Americas funded the construction of churches, convents and mansions in the Renaissance and Baroque styles.
Along the Guadalquivir
The east bank of the Guadalquivir, which is now just a peaceful side-branch from the main river, has been turned into a pleasant promenade. Sights in this area include the twelve-sided Torre de Oro, which in Muslim times formed part of the city’s defences, and a replica of the Nao Victoria, the boat which completed the first circumnavigation of the Earth. You also get great views across to Triana, the lively neighbourhood on the other side of the river.
Lunch
You can enjoy anything from traditional Andalucian fare to modern fusion cuisine at one of the many bars and restaurants in the city centre. For better value and a more authentic experience, avoid the area right by the cathedral and head into the side streets. And it’s always worth checking the latest reviews before sitting down!
Afternoon
Seville Cathedral
Seville’s massive cathedral was built in the 15th century on the site of the city’s former main mosque. Its bell tower – the famous Giralda – and the Orange Tree Courtyard still serve as reminders of that Islamic past. Although it was originally conceived in the Gothic style, later additions mean that the building we see today combines Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements.
The cathedral also houses an impressive art collection, as well as the tombs of notable figures including Ferdinand III of Castile and Christiopher Columbus. For a completely different perspective on the building and its surroundings, you can do a rooftop tour of the cathedral.
Evening
Glide along the Guadalquivir on a sunset river cruise.
Calle Feria and the streets around are great for tapas bar-hopping – try Casa Vizcaíno or Bar El Templo de Feria. Fatouch has very tasty Lebanese food.
For a formal meal, Lalola de Javi Abascal offers modern Andalucian cuisine, specialising in Iberian pork dishes.
Day 3
Morning
Real Alcázar of Seville (Royal Alcázar)
Seville’s Royal Alcázar is really two separate palaces set in beautiful gardens. The rather austere Gothic palace dates from Alfonso X’s reign in the late 13th century, while Pedro I’s Mudejar palace is a harmonious blend of Muslim, Christian and Jewish influences. If at first glance it resembles the Nasrid Palaces in the Alhambra, that’s no coincidence – they were both built in the 14th century, and Pedro had a good relationship with Muhammad V, the Muslim ruler of Granada.
Lunch
The atmospheric Mercado de Triana has numerous tapas bars among the market stalls selling fresh produce, so it’s a great spot for lunch.
Afternoon
Triana
The brightly-coloured houses on Triana’s waterfront are one of Seville’s most recognisable landmarks, but behind them lies an equally colourful neighbourhood waiting to be explored. Once a working-class district with a large Roma population, these days Triana is a great place to soak up the Sevillano atmosphere, enjoy some authentic tapas and catch a passionate flamenco performance.
Evening
You shouldn’t miss the opportunity to see a flamenco show while you’re in Triana. There are a lot of good venues, including Sala Almoraima – Tablao Flamenco and Teatro Flamenco Triana.
The lively Triana district has some great options for traditional Sevillian food, particularly if you step a bit away from the end of the Triana bridge. Try Blanca Paloma, Las Golondrinas or Bar Típico.
Day 4 Seville and Córdoba
On your last morning in Seville before heading to Córdoba, take the opportunity to visit Las Setas, or one of the city’s Renaissance palaces such as Palacio de las Dueñas or Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija.
When you arrive in Córdoba, you should have time to visit the Castle of the Christinan Monarchs before heading to a taberna for a tasty supper.
Morning
Las Setas
The Metropol Parasol in Plaza de la Encarnación is popularly known as Las Setas – the mushrooms – due to its curvy shape. The wooden structure consists of six parasols – or mushrooms. You can see the Setas from underneath for free, but there’s an entrance fee to go up to the viewing terrace and walk around the structure. In the basement, the Antiquarium displays the Roman remains that were found when excavating the site.
Lunch
Grab a quick bite to eat in the Mercado de la Calle Feria – one of Seville’s most bustling markets.
Afternoon
Travel to Córdoba
The fastest way to travel from Seville to Córdoba is by train (1 hour), but you can also get a bus (2 hours +) or drive (allow up to 2 hours).
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Castle of the Christian Monarchs)
Built on the site of the former Caliphal palace, the Castle of Christian Monarchs is a marvellous example of the various cultures that have shaped Córdoba over the centuries. Most of the complex as it stands today was built during the reign of Alfonso XI in the 14th century, but it also harbours vestiges of the city’s Roman and Islamic past. Highlights of the visit include the stunning formal gardens, as well as a fine collection of Roman mosaics and the panoramic views from the castle’s formidable ramparts.
Evening
The dining options in the historic centre are surprisingly good, despite the hordes of day-tripping tourists. Many restaurants are located in traditional Andalusian houses with pretty courtyards or roof terraces with views of the Mosque-Cathedral.
Caza Mazal specialises in Sephardic cuisine and Restaurante Damasco, as the name suggests, has a range of Middle Eastern and Persian dishes. These flavours also infuse the traditional local food on offer in any of Córdoba’s restaurants. Some others worth trying are Taberna El No 10, Restaurante El Rincon De Carmen and Casa Pepe de la Judería in Calle Romero.
Days 5-6 Córdoba
Our City of Caliphs audio tour is 4.7 km long (about 3 miles) and takes you past all of the key sights, as well as going a bit beyond the main tourist centre. If you stop for lunch along the way and go into some of the sights, it will probably take most of the day. The tour starts at the viewpoint across the River Guadalquivir from the Mosque-Cathedral and then crosses the Roman bridge to the historic centre, before heading up towards Plaza del Potro, Plaza de la Corredera and Plaza de las Tendillas. The second part of tour will guide you through the Jewish quarter and San Basilio. And of course you’ll also have time to visit Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral.
On your final morning in Córdoba, set aside some time to visit some of Córdoba’s famous patios in the San Basilio district.
Day 5
Morning
Roman Córdoba
In Roman times, Córdoba was the thriving capital of the province of Baetica, which was roughly equivalent to modern-day Andalucía. Most of its Roman remains are hidden below the city, but it’s worth visiting the Archaeological Museum, which occupies the site of the Roman theatre and has a good collection of Roman statues and everyday items. The Roman Temple has recently been restored and can be visited if booked in advance.
Of course, there’s also the “Roman bridge”, although very little of the original Roman structure remains. Nevertheless, it’s one of Córdoba’s iconic sights, and a great vantage point from which to admire the Mosque-Cathedral and mighty River Guadalquivir.
Plaza del Potro
Plaza del Potro is an attractive square named after the statue of a colt that adorns the fountain. It is flanked by three museums: the Flamenco Centre Fosforito ($) housed in a former inn mentioned in Cervantes’ masterpiece Don Quijote; Córdoba’s Fine Arts Museum; and the Julio Romero de Torres Museum ($), dedicated to the work of one of Spain’s finest symbolist artists.
Lunch
Córdoba is famous for its traditional tabernas. In an effort to preserve them, the local council has created a special badge that identifies the ones of particular cultural or historical interest. Away from the main tourist centre, you’ll find Taberna Salinas near the Roman Theatre and Taberna San Miguel “Casa El Pisto” in Plaza de San Miguel. If the taberna fare sounds a bit too heavy, Tu Pescaito in Plaza de la Corredera is an excellent option for fish and seafood.
Afternoon
Córdoba Mosque-Cathedral
Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral is, alongside the Alhambra, the outstanding example of Andalucía’s Islamic heritage. The original mosque, with its iconic double-tiered red and white arches, was completed in less than two years at the end of the 8th century. The mosque’s elegant combination of semi-circular, horseshoe and multifoil arches has provided inspiration for buildings across the world. The Main Chapel added by the Christians in the 16th century thrusts up through the roof of the mosque, creating a striking fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture that dominates Córdoba’s skyline.
Judería: Córdoba’s Jewish quarter
In the 13th and 14th centuries, the sinuous streets of Córdoba’s Judería were home to thousands of Jewish people, but they were forced to flee or convert to Christianity after a bloody pogrom in 1391. The quarter still retains the charming medieval layout of its streets, and its sights include the beautiful Synagogue, the Chapel of Saint Bartholomew ($), and the House of Sefarad ($), which tells the story of Spain’s former Jewish community.
Evening
For something different, at the Royal Stables near the Alcázar you can see an equestrian show combining pure-bred Spanish horses and flamenco.
There are several good restaurants in the San Basilio neighbourhood, including Restaurante Puerta de Sevilla and Restaurante Taberna la Viuda.
Day 6
Morning
Córdoba’s patios
Córdoba is famous for its UNESCO-listed Patios festival, which is held in May. Prizes are given for the most beautifully decorated patios or courtyards, and there are also categories for balconies and window boxes.
In the San Basilio area, there are several privately-owned flower-filled courtyards you can visit all year round. Opening times vary, but they are usually open late morning, so go before lunch. Make sure you have some coins handy as a small donation is expected.
Lunch
Grab a quick lunch at one of the many good bars and restaurants in the heart of Córdoba’s old town. Bar El Barón in Plaza de Abades is excellent, and we pass it near the start of the City of Caliphs audio tour.
Related audio tours
Save money with a tour bundle
Included audio tours:
- Seville’s Plaza de España: A Window into the Rich History of Spain
- Gateway to the Americas: A Walking Tour Through Seville’s Golden Age
- Flamenco on the Guadalquivir: Industry and Artistry in Seville’s Triana
Questions and answers
We recommend at least three nights in Seville, which will give time to see the major sights like the cathedral, Royal Alcázar and Plaza de España, as well as to soak up the atmosphere of the city and explore its traditional neighbourhoods. If you want to do any day trips from Seville, you should allow longer.
It is definitely worth staying overnight in Córdoba as there’s plenty to occupy you for two or three days. And in the evening, once the day-trippers have left, you see a different side to the city.